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Chez Juliette.
There is a fertile smell on our porch. Sherry has planted the pots and boxes, there are petunias overflowing the hanging baskets. To sit out on what is a very rare porch on the "poor" side of Shadyside is a treat in itself, but in June, when everything is fresh and newly transplanted, the perfume is intoxicating.
This was our first meal in Paris. We had arrived, wary and worried at the address that we had contracted for the week. The neighborhood, a working class quartier just south of Montmartre seemed a bit dusty and in transition, but after struggling in French and Spanish with Mme Esteves, our contact-slash-savior we settled in to our, frankly, luxurious apartment. Our thoughts quickly turned to dinner.
Our host had suggested a place down the street, at 42 rue Rochechouart, a Chez Jeanine for their steak tartare. But at 42 rue Rochechouart, we found Chea Juliette instead, a tumbledown open bistro with geraniums at the windows and a large, dirty man in an apron shooing patrons away until 7:30. We walked down the street and stopped at a friendly fromagerie (turns out that Pennsylvania is on the proprietor's hit parade, but Philadelphia ranks higher than Pittsburgh; there was the iconic cream cheese proudly displayed in his case) and a boulangerie.
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